[Click on blue links for further information] You already know that Alebrijes Make Me Happy. All of Mexico makes me happy. It’s a large country (760,000 square miles) but smaller than the contiguous 48 states of the USA (3 million square miles). Thankfully you can find almost all of Mexico in a mere 400 square feet on Basilio Badillo street in Puerto Vallarta. Those cozy 400 square feet constitute Lucy’s CuCu Cabana. I make a point of visiting the proprietors, my friends Lucy and Gil, every year. They have some of the most unusual, eclectic, and interesting alebrijes I’ve ever seen, and, believe me, I’ve seen thousands scattered all over those 760,000 square miles from their state of origin, Oaxaca, to Zihuatanejo, to Vera Cruz, and beyond. And, the prices at Lucy’s are so reasonable you will have plenty of money left for tacos and margaritas. Some of my most cherished alebrijes include a Lion whom I’ve named Lucy of course and Gil, my “burro completo.” I must also mention Hugo, my dragon, named after our wonderful friend who worked at the shop for several years. Hugo gave me the best advice I’ve ever received from a fellow reader: “the second most foolish thing to do is to loan a book to ANYONE. The most foolish thing is to return a book you’ve been loaned.” I had many wonderful discussions with Hugo. Sadly, he died of lung cancer a few years ago. I wrote a poem about him that you can find below. Today, Nancy tends the shop when Lucy and Gil are up to something creative like writing books (Gil’s books can be found HERE.) I highly recommend reading them for the humor and the perspective on Puerto Vallarta and Mexico). Nancy has become a new friend that we often see walking with the dogs on the Malecon. Everyone walks on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta, gliding along like dancing ants in a beautiful panorama of bodies and smells and colors. If you walk on the Malecon, look carefully for the mermaids. They’re hard to find. Luckily for us Lucy and Gil had one for sale and we snapped it up like two turtles fighting over a fly. Every time I pick a book from the bookcase in my house the hanging monkeys are there to greet me. The Karate monkey on the right keeps the others from stealing my books. I’m not so lucky with the giant spider. He often comes out of his corner to read voraciously. A rocking horse is too common for Lucy’s shop. She prefers the rocking cat. There are many things in Lucy’s shop apart from the unusual alebrijes. Silver jewelry, weavings, pottery. I particularly like the small hand painted tins called ex votos usually depicting miracle stories. The skeleton masks are among the favorites in my collection. And, we have several magic cacti, I call them magic because of the animals and insects they attract and their vibrant colors. Don’t overlook the toilet art. The metal of old style toilet tanks is hammered into shape and painted exquisitely. Since we’ve been collecting for years, we have large and small animals as you might imagine. Rabbits, apes, pigs, rhinos, you name it. I’ll close with a few pictures of alebrijes we don’t have, alebrijes in the shop right now. If you see something you like, hurry before someone snaps it up. Everything in Lucy’s shop is one-of-a-kind. So, as is said, snooze and you lose. And, don’t forget to scroll down to see my poem for Hugo. He was a great friend. I miss him as I miss all my friends in Puerto Vallarta. Na Zdorovie my friends. Let’s get together soon !
For Hugo
from Oaxaca 2012
The coughing starts in the middle of the night
Deep within the lungs
Always at the darkest hour.
I’m surprised to be awake
And slightly annoyed
Until I think
How frightened he must have been
To die alone, my friend.
The friend I hardly knew.
We spoke of books.
To lend a book he said
Was crazy
But to return a book borrowed,
That was crazier still.
He laughed.
I imagine they found
A pile of books
By his bed.
The coughing resumes.
It must have been like this for Hugo
When he awoke, unable to breathe.
I heard him in the shop.
Told him he was sick.
He said it was just a cold.
He didn’t have the money,
Or the strength,
to face the truth.
“I boil some water on the stove,” he said
“Put in the herbs, drape a towel
Over my head and breathe it in.”
A gentle man,
He wrapped the alebrijes
As if they were his children.
My God, it sounds terrible.
I think it’s coming from
The house next door.
Sounds carry in the night, It’s easy to be deceived.
I don’t care
If it keeps me from sleeping.
It’s a small price to pay
To hear my friend
Speaking again.
He knew my wife loved fish
He told me about a fish restaurant
Where the crab tacos were to die for.
We got all dressed up and took a taxi.
Turns out it was a local place
We looked like a couple of silly gringos who were lost.
But, he was right.
The fish was good.
And everyone smiled at us.
The next day
We went to the shop
To pick up our stuff.
He had everything
Wrapped
And ready to go.
It must be about
Two o’clock In the morning
And the coughing goes on and on.
Yesterday I asked
The young man next door
And he said he was getting better
Just like Hugo.
We shook hands
I told him next year I’d be back.
Oh yes,
Next year.
I’ll be waiting for you.
My God, the critters are staggeringly beautiful.
Was beyond gratified to crane my neck to read a title on a prominent book on the shelf and see Flannery O’Connor’s Complete Stories.