Think in the morning. Act in the noon. Eat in the evening. Sleep in the night.
- William BlakeBehind the Locked Door
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The Wanda Tinasky Affair
There are strange things done in the midnight sun By the men who moil for gold; The Arctic trails have their secret tales That would make your blood run cold; The Northern Lights have seen queer sights, But the queerest they ever did see Was that night on the marge of...
Oliver Sacks in Oaxaca
Written over fifteen years ago, Oliver Sacks’ Oaxaca Journal is still one of the best books for visitors to Oaxaca. I was confused to read that one reviewer thinks that: “Sacks did not go into the depth I might have expected based on the insight he displayed in...
A House Divided
"It was the best of times, it was the worst of times, it was the age of wisdom, it was the age of foolishness, it was the epoch of belief, it was the epoch of incredulity, it was the season of Light, it was the season of Darkness, it was the spring of hope, it was the...
The Trickster: Clifford Irving in Oaxaca
It was Mark Twain who said “truth is stranger than fiction, but it is because fiction is obliged to stick to possibilities; truth isn’t.” Mark Twain could have been speaking about Clifford Irving’s Howard Hughes hoax that's based on a true adventure. Anyone will...
The Last Zapotec Princess
The executioner lifts the macuahuitl and points it toward the sky. Donaji lays on the stone altar, her neck extended, slightly bent, fully exposed to the powerful thrust she knows is to come. She is a Zapotec Princess, the last. She will give her life for her...
Some Traditional Markets of Oaxaca
NOTE: ALL MARKET PICTURES IN THIS POST WERE TAKEN AT THE FRIDAY MARKET AT EL LLANO BENITO JUAREZ PARK UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED. Oaxaca abounds with traditional markets. The grand market of the city, Central de Abastos, was brilliantly described by D.H....
Restaurant Review: Tobaziche
Tobaziche (WEBSITE) is a great little find in Oaxaca, just a few blocks from the beautiful Santo Domingo Church, right across the street from the historic Quinta Real hotel at 307 Cinco de Mayo. We stumbled onto this restaurant a year ago after a rousing performance...
Lapiztola
"A punk is someone who knows how to ask the world uncomfortable questions and does everything possible to make sure the world can't cop out of answering those questions. A punk is a person who lives and breathes astonishment. Astonishing other people and astonishing...
A Personal Mezcal Tasting
A mezcal tasting is a beautiful thing. I hope you have your chance. I interspersed quotes from some of my favorite authors throughout this essay in the hope of inspiring you to grab at the opportunity should it arise.Qué bonito y qué bonito How nice, I say how nice,...
Appreciating Oaxaca With Saul Bellow and Italo Calvino
[Pictures of Mitla courtesy of Rene Cabrerra, Las Bugambilias B&B Tours, Nikhol Esteras Photographer] “Spicy foods were [considered] stimulants. They were classified as stimulants, so they were on that same continuum along with caffeine and alcohol all the way up...
In Oaxaca
The day changes somewhere over L.A. on the red eye from San Francisco to Mexico City. I notice the first changes to my body when I arrive at dawn. Subtle changes. I’m tired but happy, relaxed. An ancient past begins to tug at my sleeve, pulls me away from where...
Mezcal Brings Out Cow Hollow Eatery’s Oaxacan Roots
Delarosa, the immensely popular bar and food hangout on Chestnut Street in the Cow Hollow District of San Francisco, has pulled off one of the greatest food heists of all time. Styling themselves as an Italian bistro with pizzas, salads, skewered protein, Panini...